Cosmetic industry

Scientific rationale for the use of Dihydroquercetin as a cosmetic ingredient.

(Source: Dihydroquercetin and Arabinogalactan – natural bioregulators in the life of humans and animals, use in agriculture and food industry. Publishing House “Scientific Library” 2017, Doctor of Biological Sciences, Professor Yu.P. Fomichev)

Dihydroquercetin (DHQ) is a free radical protectant that helps reduce oxidative damage caused by butionine sulfoximine (BSS), an inhibitor of glutathione synthesis in fibroblasts (Skaper S.D., Fabris M., Ferrari V. et al., 1997). Dihydroquercetin prevents the death of human keratinocytes caused by hydrogen peroxide (HaCaT cells transformed spontaneously) and in mouse fibroblasts (BALB/c; cljneA31) (Svoboda A., Walterova S., Psotova J., Burns, 2006), inhibits the generation of superoxide, lipid peroxidation and accumulation of sorbitol in human erythrocytes, and also contributes to their protection from oxidative stress (Haguchi H., Ohmi I. et al., 1997). It also prevents the formation of lipid peroxide caused by microsomal oxidation of NADP. At a DHQ dose of 10 µg/ml, almost 80% inhibition of this process is observed, and at 30 µg/ml, lipid peroxidation is completely inhibited (Haraguchi H., Mochida Y., Sakai S. et al., 1996).

Dihydroquercetin has antimicrobial properties. It inhibits the growth of Streptococcus sorbinus at a concentration of 9.3 to 42.7 µg/mL and exhibits GTase inhibitory activity at a concentration of 27.4–57.3 µg/mL (IC50). Thus, DHQ can act as an effective tool in the prevention of dental caries (Kuspradini and Mitsunaga, 2009). It was confirmed that DHQ at a concentration of 0.1% has an antimicrobial effect against the microorganism Staphilococcus aureus (Goncharova N.G., Panova O.S. et al., Expert opinion, 2005). Thus, DHQ contributes to the prevention of skin diseases caused by bacteria of the genus Staphilococcus aureus (empyema, furuncle, barley, etc.). DHQ has been shown to exhibit strong antifungal and antimicrobial activity (compared to benzoic acid) on two Gram-positive and three Gram-negative bacteria. The inhibitory effect of DHQ on cell growth was evaluated in liquid culture. DHQ inhibited the growth of most bacteria at a concentration of 20 10-4M (Young L.K., Seok L.K. et al., 2007). DHQ has anti-inflammatory properties in in vitro studies conducted on human keratinocytes. The potential of DHQ in the treatment of skin diseases associated with inflammatory processes has been shown.

DHQ as an anti-inflammatory agent.

DHQ limited the development of formalin and histamine-induced acute inflammatory edema in mice, and also significantly (by 4 times compared to 552 Chapter 14. The use of dihydroquercetin in the cosmetic industry with control) reduced the accumulation of exudate in a model of peritonitis in rats (Plotnikov M.B. , Tyukavkina N.A., Plotnikova T.M., 2005). The anti-inflammatory effect of DHQ was studied in carrageenan-induced edema and formaldehyde-induced arthritis in albino rats. DHQ showed an anti-inflammatory effect in all studied models and was more effective than hydrocortisone in the model of carrageenan-induced edema (Qipta M.B., Bhalla T.N., Qipta G.P. et al., 1971). In an experiment on the study of acute inflammatory edema with the introduction of bradykinin and dextran under the aponeurosis of the hind limbs of rats, DHQ significantly showed a pronounced anti-edematous effect in the case of dextran, and DHQ pentaacetylate suppressed the development of limb edema caused by bradykinin (Cechinel-Filho V., Vas Z.R., Zinino L et al., 2000). DHQ and skin diseases DHQ markedly inhibits interferon gamma-induced adhesion of ICAM-1 in the reconstructed skin model, which indicates its therapeutic potential in pathological skin conditions associated with increased cell adhesion and inflammation (Bito T., Roy S., Den C.K. et al., 2002). The results of biochemical experimental studies showed that the content of total lipids in the skin under the influence of DHQ increased by 32.7% compared to the control level, which indicates a positive effect of this cosmetic raw material on the function of skin sebum secretion in the care of dry, aging skin of the face and body (Goncharov N.G., Panova O.S., Gurochkina L.P. Expert opinion).

DHQ as a wound healing agent.

It has been established that DHQ localized in lecithin nanoparticles in the presence of an amino acid helps to reduce the inflammatory reactions of post-thermal burns in the wound area in Wistar rats. The use of the liposomal complex in burn injury stabilizes the endogenous antioxidant system and limits the zone of secondary necrosis in wounds. Intensification of skin regeneration and repair of hair follicles and sebaceous glands was noted (Naumova A.A., Potselueva M.M., 2010). DHQ, localized in lecithin nanoparticles in the presence of an amino acid, helps to reduce the inflammatory response in the wound area caused by chemical burns and prevents lipid peroxidation in adjacent tissues, which enhances the process of skin regeneration (Naumova A.A., Shatalin Yu.V., Sukhomlin T.K. et al., 2008).

Sun protection properties of DKV.

Skin pigmentation.

DHQ inhibits α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MCH) melanogenesis B16F10 muscle melanoma cells more effectively than arbutin (one of the most commonly used whitening cosmetic ingredients) (An S.M., Kim H.J., Kim J.E. Boo Y.C., 2008).

UV protection.

DHQ has pronounced light-filtering properties. In the experiment, the drug showed the maximum light absorption at wavelengths of 225 and 325 nm. Thus, the DHQ has not one, but two maxima at wavelengths of 225 and 327 nm, which allows it to be used as a promising UV filter that absorbs both UV-F and UV-B rays (Panyushin S., Sakharov B. et al., 1999).

DHQ in oral care.

DHQ dose-dependently inhibits the growth of Streptococcus sobrinus bacteria, which causes caries. The minimum concentration of a substance to inhibit the growth of bacteria is 225 μg / ml; the minimum bactericidal concentration is 900 μg/ml, the concentration that inhibits 50% of bacterial activity is 21.8±1.7 μg/ml (Kusparadini et al., 2009).

In a study on 52 patients with mild to moderate generalized periodontitis, it was found that DKV contributes to a more rapid removal of edema or its significant reduction, normalization of microcirculation, and strengthening of the capillary bed (2003). 

Since 2007, dihydroquercetin has been registered in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) under the name DIHYDROQUERCETIN. Registration data for dehydroquercetin on the website of the European Commission: INCIDIHYDROQUERCETIN. CFS 480-18-2. EINECS 207-543-4. Alternative name Taxifolin. Functional purpose – antioxidant.