cosmetic industry

Rationale for the use of dihydroquercetin as an antioxidant in the production of cosmetics.

1. Dihydroquercetin for the cosmetic industry

Dihydroquercetin (Taxifolin), a natural antioxidant, a flavonoid derived from Siberian Larch, ranks first among known antioxidants, including vitamins C, E and beta-carotene, surpassing them according to the ORAC scale by 11 or more times in its antioxidant activity. Dihydroquercetin was tested by the ORAC method in 2008-2009 by two independent laboratories Advanced Botanical Consulting & Testing, Inc. and Brunswick Laboratories.

Dihydroquercetin 90-92% of the degree of purification of production is intended for use in the perfumery and cosmetic industry:

• as an antioxidant to extend the shelf life of raw materials and finished fat-containing cosmetic products. It is used in the production of face and body creams and jellies, lotions, shampoos, hair balms, toothpastes.
• as an antioxidant for face and body skin care, hair, nails.

Since 2007, dihydroquercetin has been registered in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) under the name DIHYDROQUERCETIN.

Registration data for dihydroquercetin on the website of the European Commission: INCI DIHYDROQUERCETIN. CAS 480-18-2. EINECS 207-543-4. Alternative name Taxifolin. Chemical/IUPAC Name (2R-trans)-2-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-2,3-dihydro-3,5,7-trihydroxy-4-benzopyrone. Functional purpose – antioxidant.

TR CU 009/2011 On the safety of perfumery and cosmetic products contains a list of harmful substances that are prohibited from use in cosmetic products and substances that are allowed for use in limited quantities. Dihydroquercetin is not mentioned in this document, which indicates its safety and the possibility of using it in an amount that provides the desired effect.

2. Why is dihydroquercetin used in the production of cosmetics?

Due to a wide range of pharmacological properties, dihydroquercetin is successfully used in the cosmetic industry.

Thus, by the end of December 2011, more than 300 products containing dihydroquercetin were registered in Russia, including about 90 cosmetic products.

• Being the most powerful natural antioxidant, dihydroquercetin protects cells from the harmful effects caused by an excess of free radicals.
• Dihydroquercetin helps to inhibit oxidative damage to skin fibroblasts caused by glutathione depletion.
• Dihydroquercetin, introduced into cosmetics, helps prevent the oxidation of the product itself, which is important if cosmetics contain unsaturated fatty acids that are easily oxidized.
• Due to its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, dihydroquercetin is used in the production of cosmetic products for the care of problem skin. A cosmetic product based on dihydroquercetin helps to reduce inflammation and redness of the skin, eliminate excess oiliness, giving the skin a healthy look.
• Acting at the cellular level, dihydroquercetin strengthens the walls of blood vessels, increasing their tone, stimulates cellular metabolism, and protects the skin from ultraviolet exposure. Therefore, creams based on dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) soften, smooth the skin, protect it from aggressive environmental influences.
• Dihydroquercetin helps to inhibit the process of melanogenesis, which indicates the possibility of its use as a component in an anti-pigmentation agent.
• Dihydroquercetin accelerates the healing process of wounds, promoting skin regeneration.

3. Scientific rationale for the use of dihydroquercetin as a cosmetic ingredient

Wound healing agent

• Accelerates the process of wound healing and skin regeneration in case of burns. The process of restoration of the epithelial layer is faster, and the newly formed epidermis acquires elastic properties, which leads to wound healing without the formation of a rough scar.
• Stimulates the acceleration of skin cell regeneration, activating the synthesis of collagen fibers.
• It has been established that dihydroquercetin, localized in lecithin nanoparticles in the presence of an amino acid, helps to reduce inflammatory reactions after a thermal burn in the wound area in Wistar rats. The use of a liposomal complex in burn injury stabilizes the endogenous antioxidant system and limits the zone of secondary necrosis in wounds. Intensification of the process of skin regeneration and repair of hair follicles and sebaceous glands was noted (Naumov A.A., Potselueva M.M., Tsitologiya, 2010).
• Dihydroquercetin, localized in lecithin nanoparticles in the presence of an amino acid, helps to reduce the inflammatory response in the wound area caused by a chemical burn and prevent lipid peroxidation in adjacent tissues, which enhances the process of skin regeneration (Naumov A.A., Shatalin Yu.V. , Sukhomlin T.K. et al., Innovative technologies in transplantation of organs, tissues and cells, 2008).

Sunscreen properties of dihydroquercetin

• UV protection. Prevents the development of skin carcinogenesis caused by exposure to UV radiation, has a chemoprophylactic effect.
• Dihydroquercetin showed maximum light absorption at wavelengths of 225 and 327 nm. This allows it to be used as a promising UV filter that absorbs both UVA and UVB rays. The addition of vitamin C compensates for the main drawback of dihydroquercetin as a UV filter – a “dip” in the region of 260-270 nm. The absorption spectrum of the complex (dihydroquercetin + vitamin C) covers almost the entire ultraviolet region (210–340 nm), which creates a completely reliable barrier to UV rays.
• Inhibits α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis of B16 F10 mouse melanoma cells more effectively than arbutin (one of the most commonly used whitening cosmetic ingredients).

Free radical scavenger

• It is an anti-aging agent for the skin.
• Increases the activity of the antioxidant defense system and reduces the intensity of free-radical reactions of lipid peroxidation, reduces the time of wound healing.
• Dihydroquercetin helps to reduce oxidative damage caused by butionine sulfoximine (BSO), an inhibitor of glutathione synthesis, in fibroblast cells (Skaper S.D., Fabris M., Ferrari V., et al., 1997).
• Dihydroquercetin inhibits superoxide generation, lipid peroxidation and sorbitol accumulation in human erythrocytes, and also contributes to their protection against oxidative stress (Haraguchi H., Ohmi I., et al. Biosci. Biotech. Biochem, 1997).
• Dihydroquercetin prevents the formation of lipid peroxide caused by microsomal oxidation of NADP. Dihydroquercetin is effective in preventing microsomal lipid peroxidation. At a dosage of dihydroquercetin of 10 μg / ml, almost 80% inhibition of this process is observed, and at a dosage of 30 μg / ml, the process of lipid peroxidation is completely inhibited (Haraguchi H., Mochida Y., Sakai S., et al., 1996).

Antimicrobial agent

• Dihydroquercetin inhibits the growth of Streptococcus sorbinus at a concentration of 9.3 to 42.7 µg/mL and exhibits GTase inhibitory activity at a concentration of 27.4-57.3 µg/mL (IC50). Thus, dihydroquercetin can act as an effective tool in the prevention of dental caries (Kuspradini H., Mitsunaga T. J. of Wood Science, 2009).
• Dihydroquercetin at a concentration of 0.1% has been confirmed to have antimicrobial activity against the microorganism Staphilococcus aureus. Thus, dihydroquercetin contributes to the prevention of skin diseases caused by bacteria of the genus Staphilococcus aureus, such as empyema, furuncle, barley, etc. (Goncharov N.G., Panova O.S. et al. Expert opinion, 2005).
• Dihydroquercetin has been shown to have strong antifungal activity (compared to benzoic acid) on two types of Gram-positive bacteria and three types of Gram-negative bacteria.

     The inhibitory effect of dihydroquercetin on cell growth was evaluated in liquid culture. Dihydroquercetin inhibited the growth of most bacteria at a concentration of 20×10-4M (Young L.K., Seok L.K., et al. FASEB, Journal, 2007).

Anti-inflammatory agent

• Dihydroquercetin has anti-inflammatory properties in in vitro studies conducted on human keratinocytes. The potential of dihydroquercetin in the treatment of skin diseases associated with inflammatory processes is shown.
• Dihydroquercetin limited the development of acute inflammatory edema caused by formalin and histamine in mice, and also significantly (4 times compared with the control) reduced the accumulation of exudate under the conditions of the peritonitis model in rats (Plotnikov M.B., Tyukavkina N.A., Plotnikova T.M., 2005).
• The anti-inflammatory effect of dihydroquercetin was studied on carrageenan-induced edema and formaldehyde-induced arthritis in albino rats. Dihydroquercetin showed anti-inflammatory effects in all studied models and was more effective than hydrocortisone in the model of carrageenan-induced edema (Gupta M.B., Bhalla T.N., Gupta G.P., et al. J Pharmacol., 1971).
• In experiments on the study of acute inflammatory edema with the introduction of bradykinin and dextran under the aponeurosis of the hind paws of rats, dihydroquercetin significantly showed a pronounced anti-edematous effect in the case of dextran, and dihydroquercetin-pentaacetylate suppressed the development of paw edema caused by bradykinin (Cechinel-Filho V., Vas ZR, Zinino L. et al. Arzneim-Forsch, 2000).

 Dihydroquercetin in oral care

• Dihydroquercetin inhibits the growth of Streptococcus sobrinus bacteria, which cause caries, in a dose-dependent manner. The minimum concentration of a substance to inhibit the growth of bacteria is 225 µg/ml; minimum bacterial concentration – 900 µg/ml, IC50 – concentration that inhibits 50% of bacterial activity – 21.8±1.7 µg/ml (Kusparadini et al. J. Wood Sci., 2009).
• Conducted a study on 52 patients with mild to moderate generalized periodontitis. In the course of the study, it was found that dihydroquercetin contributes to a faster removal of edema or its significant reduction, normalization of microcirculation, and strengthening of the capillary bed (Advances in Modern Natural Science, 2003).

4. Scientific rationale for the use of dihydroquercetin as a therapeutic cosmetic ingredient

• Reduces inflammation and redness of the skin, eliminates excess oil, giving the skin a healthy look.
• It is used in the production of cosmetic products for the care of problem skin due to its antibacterial properties.
• Prevents or reduces morphological changes in the skin of patients with psoriasis vulgaris. With topical application of dihydroquercetin ointment (2.5%), it is possible to stabilize structural damage to keratinocytes, reduce reactive phenomena from the microvasculature of the dermis.
• Can be used to treat leishmaniasis.
• Can be used to treat atopic dermatitis.
• Dihydroquercetin significantly inhibits INF-gamma-induced adhesion of ICAM-1 in the restored skin model, which indicates the therapeutic potential of dihydroquercetin in pathological skin conditions associated with increased cell adhesion and inflammation (Bito T., Roy S., Den CK, et al FEBS Letters, 2002).
• The results of biochemical experimental studies showed that the content of total lipids in the skin under the influence of dihydroquercetin increased by 32.7% compared to the control level, which indicates a positive effect of this cosmetic raw material on the function of skin sebum secretion when caring for dry, aging skin of the face and body (Goncharov N.G., Panova O.S., Gurochkina L.P. Expert opinion).

5. Dihydroquercetin is an effective antioxidant and vitamin C synergist

• It is the most effective antioxidant (antioxidant preservative) and is used in lower concentrations than vitamins C and E. For example, in the food industry, to extend the shelf life of juices by 1.5-2.5 times, a 10 times lower concentration of dihydroquercetin is needed, than vitamin C.
• The recommended concentration of dihydroquercetin for cosmetics is 0.01 – 3%, depending on the form of release (lipstick, soap, gel, cream).
• Dihydroquercetin enhances the action of ascorbic acid (vitamin C), jointly participating in many biochemical processes in the skin, such as:

1. inhibition of hyaluronidase activity;
2. stabilization of lysosomes;
3. formation and stabilization of collagen;
4. participation in the exchange of metal ions;
5. inhibition of free radical processes;
6. decrease in the severity of capillary toxicosis during therapy with anticoagulants, salicylic acid and its derivatives;
7. vascular strengthening effect;
8. antitumor effect;
9. phytoestrogenic activity.

     It has been experimentally proven that the antiradical properties of the composition of dihydroquercetin and vitamin C are higher than that of each of them separately.

6. Action of dihydroquercetin in cosmetics

• Warming massage cream. Creams based on dihydroquercetin have warming, vasodilating and softening properties. They are a prophylactic that prevents injuries during physical exertion and sports, prevents sprains and dislocations.
• Scrub for different skin types. Scrub with dihydroquercetin has a cleansing, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effect. Activates collagen synthesis in the skin, improves skin elasticity.
• Creams and balms for the skin of the body and hands. Creams based on dihydroquercetin strengthen capillaries, improve lymph and blood circulation; have a strong moisturizing, antioxidant effect; eliminate dryness and peeling.
• Face creams and balms for all skin types. Creams based on dihydroquercetin restore the vital potential of the skin, providing high antioxidant protection; improve cellular respiration and saturate the skin; even out the complexion, contribute to the reduction of fine wrinkles, significantly improving the elasticity and firmness of the skin.
• Foot cream. Cream with dihydroquercetin has a capillary-protective, anti-inflammatory and anti-edematous effect; strengthens the walls of blood vessels and increases their tone; reduces the feeling of fatigue and heaviness in the legs; reduces the risk of thrombosis. Recommended for varicose veins.
• Cosmetics after shaving. Means with dihydroquercetin relieves discomfort and skin irritation. Stimulates the healing process of damaged tissues caused by shaving; has moisture-retaining properties, protects the skin from moisture loss.
• Shampoos. Shampoo with dihydroquercetin cares for the hair roots, maintains their healthy appearance, preserves the natural moisture of the hair.
• Oral care products. Tooth rinses and toothpastes with dihydroquercetin help to improve the soft tissues of the oral cavity and eliminate gum bleeding, strengthen the walls of gum capillaries.

7. Preclinical study of the effect of dihydroquercetin on the skin

The study of the effect of dihydroquercetin on the skin was carried out on the basis of the Testing Laboratory Center of the ANO “Research Center of Cosmetology” (Mayatskaya T.V., Candidate of Medical Sciences, dermato-cosmetologist, President of the Perfume and Cosmetic Chamber “Quality”, Director of the Center for Certification of Perfumery and Cosmetic Products and Services “Cosmetic-Test”, Director of the Scientific and Cosmetic Center “Research Center of Cosmetology”, Protocol, 2005).

The study was conducted on 21 guinea pigs and 21 outbred rats. An area of 3 x 3 cm was cut off on the side of the animals. A 0.1% model emulsion of dihydroquercetin was applied to the animals of the experimental group, an emulsion not containing dihydroquercetin was applied to the animals of the control group. All preparations were applied once a day for 21 days. After the end of the experiment, skin flaps were taken for morphological studies from the site of application of the drug in all animals involved in the study and the following results were obtained.

8. Safety of dihydroquercetin

• Toxicological and genotoxic evaluation of dihydroquercetin obtained from Dahurian larch, Alexander G. Schauss, S.S. Tseluiko,
  V.A. Kuznetsova, I. Egorova
• The European Food Safety Authority (Committee on Diet, Nutrition and Allergies) has published its final
  scientific opinion on the safety of dihydroquercetin as a new food ingredient in the EFSA Journal.
• Dihydroquercetin does not show mutagenic properties.

9. Recommended concentration of dihydroquercetin for cosmetics